The different projects

8/24/12

I have had some Goodman Axiette drivers for years and years with no proper boxes for them. As they only can be mounted from the rear (that came out wrong but you know what I mean).
It is a fullrange driver with high sensitivity and also quite high resonance frequency
Paramètres haut-parleur de THIELE et SMALL, sans filtre ni ampli

I have these grand plans for real Onkens for 15” drivers, but I newer seem to get to them, then I read on French site (see above) about tuning of the Axiette in a kind of undertuned bass reflex. So then it stuck me why not make the Axiettes a Onken type of enclosure and try out various ideas in a smaller scale.

So the box is made of 16mm MDF apart from the port walls that are 12mm MDF. Then I have used soft wood for braces and radiusing/ decoration

I could not get a proper tuning and at the same time get a port area equal to the cone area, so I added a 12mm radius bend in the opening of the ports as well as adding a 21 mm radius along the inner part of the ports. The ports are 16mm wide so the total surface area in the begining and end of the ports are about 176 cm2 and with a about 30 cm port lenght and a 45 Liter box the tuning is a bit above 50 Hz. Not the undertuned way of the french site but what the heck
Painting the inside of the ports was stupid as it interferes with the gluing of those small partitions strips. Next time I will use some water based dark wood stain that does not mess with the gluing. I stapled 10mm felt to some of the braces and the sides top and bottom are all lined with 10 felt. Betwen the two braces running down the back I have jammed some fistfuls of BAF.
 The eagle eyed wiever might notice two sets of cables with one set having a set of caps in series. The reason is that the box is prepared for active drive two way systems and then the caps are used to protect the tweeter from any turn on transient.
I also added some felt to the back of the baffle, here you also get a first glimpse of drivers

I used a lot of bolts and captive nuts to bolt the baffle to the rest of the box. The cutout is roughly chamfered to ⅓ ro ½ of the baffle thickness, more work could be done here. I have used Neutric Speakon connector instead of the usual binding posts, I love them and will convert all my amplifers to speakon including my vintage Sansui power amplifer. I do not understand how little we have progressed on speaker connectors in 50 years. The DIN was OK for its time with low powered tube amps, then came the spring loaded terminal with its frayed cable ends and risk of shorts if the “frays” bridged plus and minus. The Binding posts of today and banana plugs of today sure offer golden bling but that is about it.


But back to the Axiette, here how it looks

It does look strange on such small stands but this is what I have.





How does it sound
Right of the bat it sound well balanced, the real bass slam is missing but everything is there in the right proportions.
 Susan Vega: Tom’s diner, sound fantastic
Duffy: Rockferry, still really good
Adele: Rolling in the deep, not to good it does not get the real weight behind it.
Kroumata Percussion Ensamble, BIS CD-232, The BIS record company have a warning label that they do not use compression at all. I have heard this particular percussion ensamble many times and I can testify that as much of the slam and impact is preserved, as far as I can judge it within the limitations of my rooms and speakers. Here it sound good but it still lack the real slam, if this is due to lack of bass or softening of midbass I do not know






Measurements
 The drivers are well matched, the peak at 450 Hz shows some resonance behaviour. The high Q value makes it difficult to avoid a bass hump.  I had trouble when measuring Vas by added mass (a tape roll) reporting that 93 g mass did not lower the resonance by at least 25% as required! Looking at the curves suggested a peak at 20 Hz and an other at 200 Hz and so on.I suspected that the cones are to flimsy and used a smaller diameter roll and got better result. Flimsy cones may also explain the lack of slam.



Vent tuned to about 55 Hz. That 500 Hz peak is not intrinsic to the box as other drivers does not have that peak
 
Frequency response
3 cm response dip closely matches the tuning of the box, quite well balanced response, adding 50 and 100 cm show a slow decline above 2 kHz and a sharp peak at 10 kHz. I have to wait until I can measure time domain response and harmonic distortion before finding out more measurment wise.



I did fiddle around with a peak trap and a Zobel filter, it did tame the peak but took away to much of the tweeter range as well so I will not publish the components used
Concluding remarks
The side walls are vibrating more than I expected, when I build Onken style boxes for 15” I will make sure that they are very well braced. The axiette sound really nice if I avoid to complex music, it it is the cone that is soft and can not “slam” or if the light weight (Mms of 11 gram) cone that is more sensitive to reflections in the rellatively lightly damped cabinet I do not know. I think that the Axiettes sound better than the Lowters I have heard and the Philips 9710 but they are far far behind the magic of the Voxative speakers. So a really respectable driver designed more than 50 years ago, but not a magic blast from the past.


 

3/18/12

Frequency Measurement using XTZ mkII

With the mike about 1 cm in front of the cone I get a really nice response. The slope above 4 kHz is an artifact, at a distance of 30 cm (and more) the driver keeps going to 16 kHz and then it drops rapidly.
The dip at the 63 Hz mark shows that the pipe is giving increased radiation resistance and thus reduced output from the driver in the 50-80 Hz range. The dB of driver and pipe can not be simply added as phase and radiation surface come into play.
Below is the output from the pipe, a broad peak around the fundamental at 60-70Hz, a dip of the second harmonic of 125 Hz and a second unwanted peak in the 200 Hz range. I will try to increase the damping material in the first half of the pipe to reduce the harmonics and at the same time keep as much as possible of the fundamental, more to follow...

3/15/12

Added Baffle step compensation and a Zobel link

The bass was light so I added a textbook 6dB baffle step to lower the response above 600 Hz or so to get a better balance.
The green curve is the driver itself.
To flatten the impedance a zobel network is used calculated values are 4.7 Ohms and 36µF, the things I had in the drawer was way off at 6.8 Ohms and 20µF. Still it works well with an impedance ranging from 3.5 to 5 Ohm from 120 to above 10 000 Hz, pink curve where as before it reach 12 Ohm at 10 000 Hz.

Calculated baffle step compensation is a 4 Ohm resistor and a 1.1 mH coil, here I got closer at 4.7 Ohm and 0.7 mH, blue curve.

The sound took a huge step towards a more balanced sound, I am sure that there is room for improvements by tweaking various values. I will perhaps get back to that after tweaking the room accoustics.

3/2/12

Finishing the Midi Trikes

This image shows the internal construction. I have been very liberal with glue and sealer as I had two cartridges that would dry out if I not used them
Dressed up with some BAF wool in the inner tube and some foam glued to the inside of the outer tube. Not shown are some crossbraces close to the open end. I found that it vibrated a bit when playing loud.
I bought some fabric in a style that is typical of the time period 50 years ago when the Trike was concieved. I picked a eleastic fabric and sewd it as a tube that was pulled over the pipe more or less as a sock. Then I used a staple gun to fix the fabric at both ends.

Three outside legs rising the the pipe 1/10 of the diameter (2cm) attached with brass screws completes the construction. I added some modern binding posts. And presto:
Measuring the impedance shows a pipe tuning of 70 Hz with some harmonics 210 and 350 Hz, text book stuff of the third and fifth harmonic ;) The big dark thing to the right is a trike driven by a Peerless 10" alnico driver but that is an other story...
The Philips AD 3701M is a gem, it really sound right in a musical way. With nothing below 60-70 Hz it lack some in the low end but above that it is so nice, Adele sound so nice so the midrange is well taken care of.

1/8/12

The Trike (From HiFi News & Record Review 50 years ago!)

This is a very easy build and low cost as well at least for the enclosure. The aim is to use cardboard tubes to make a quarter-wave pipe. The simplest construction would be to simply block one end of a pipe and put a loudspeaker driver there. Here there is a trick were a smaller diameter tube is inserted into the larger one. The pipe is then in reality in three sections. 1. The smaller pipe, 2 the outer pipe minus the area of the inner pipe and 3 the outer pipe.

The inner diameter of the outer pipe (M) should be 1.5 times the effective cone diameter of the driver. The driver is a Phillips AD3701M a 6.5" driver with a cone diameter of about 130mm so 1.5 times that is 195mm and the pipe is 200 mm. Height of the outer pipe should be about 4 times its inner diameter or in this case 800 mm and that it what it is. The inner pipe inner diameter should be 0.6 M-wall thickness of inner-pipe so that is 200mm times 0.6 minus 4mm wall thickness = 116mm. As far as I can tell it is 118-120mm close enough. The average lenght of the inner pipe is 0.6 of the length of the outer pipe, in this case 480 mm.
M=1.5 cone diameter, T=0.6M-t (keep it above 0.5 and below 0.7)
H= 4M and d=0.6h

The building material. Going right to left: The pipes from Bauhaus, in the US it would be Home Depot and such. The drivers are from old Philips speakers bought at a thrift store at a very low cost. The plate and the bowl have the right diameter for marking the cutouts. Never use the cardboard tubes to trace the cuts as they are not truly circular.  The outer tube is fine as it is the inner has to be cut to the right lenght and slant. Cables and connectors is needed. The inner tube will get some bonded acetate fiber (I do not like to work with fiber glass. The green felt to the left may come in handy if I need to add some more damping material in the pipe.  The pine board will be material for the baffle of the driver and blocking the end of the inner pipe. Missing is some kind of feet to lift the pipe up from the floor to a hight of M/10. The feet will depend on how I finish the tubes, cover with a nice fabric, painting it, wall paper perhaps. I think I will build it first and if I like the sound I will work on the looks ;)

1/2/12

DIY Loudspaker plans for 2012

At long last I am about to embark on several DIY projects.  Last year I sold my large transmission loudspeakers and now really have to get some proper HiFi setup going again. And yes I know that I could get at least good sound by buying them of the shelf, but what would be the fun in that!

Preliminary candidates are as follows.

1. Jericho XII, based on the Jerricho 08 design from Klang & Ton but with some improvements and changes for my particlular setup.
2. Axiette of evil. A bassreflex design for the vintage classic Goodman Axiette, bessel tuning and vent geometry of the Onken type.
3. Onken 180, a "small" onken like box with the Eminence 15" Omega Pro 15A driver. Not a true Onken as far as tuning goes but vent geometry and the large total vent opening is similar.
4. Mjönir, a front loaded bass horn with Beyma 12" as horn driver...
5. CT 164, my take on a small backloaded horn using a Tangband 4" driver.
6. Mini TLS, Atkins HFN&RR design from the 80s, using modern Peerless and Seas drivers.
7. Trike, a HFN&RR design of a Voigt pipe using cardboard tubes as enclosure!
8. The Post horn, a vintage design dating all the way to the 50s, in original a mono design with the driver facing the backwall and no damping material at all inside the enclosure. The damping was improved in the HFN&RR publication by removing a brace! The thin (12mm) walls should absorb resonances by flexing.

How many of these I build and what order will depend on mood as well as time and space constrains, the last one imposed by my dear wife.